I can’t believe it’s already June. May has gone by so
quickly and now we only have a month left in Japan. I’m ready to come back to
Canada though. It’s been really hot and humid here lately which is hard to
take.
Adam and I finally took the plunge and went to Tokyo this
past weekend. We took the normal train to Nagoya and then took a shinkansen to
Tokyo. Tokyo station is quite large, so when we arrived it took us a while just
to get to the tourist information place and then to be on our way to the Edo-Tokyo
Museum. Tokyo has a fairly complicated public transit system. It’s not that there’s
so many lines, it’s more that there’s so many different companies running
subways or trains throughout the city. There’s 9 city metro lines, 4 Toei metro
lines, some other companies running other lines, JR train lines, busses, etc.,
etc. Instead of having a flat rate ticket, the trains and metro charge
different amounts for the distance travelled. Looking up at a complicated map
and trying to find the station you want so that you know how much to pay can be
difficult- especially if only some of the stops have their English/Romanji
names posted. Luckily, google maps is fantastic and tells you all the
information you need about how to get from point A to B, and I had mapped it
all out before we went and knew how much the tickets were supposed to cost.
Another tricky part is buying a ticket to transfer between two lines that are
run by different companies. Both times we had to do this, we got someone to
help us.
Now, as I was saying, we went to the Edo-Tokyo Museum which,
as the name indicates, is all about Tokyo (which was called Edo at first) and
its history. It was a pretty good museum and they had a bunch of life-size
models. It was really interesting to see the tiny little rooms families of the
low class used to live in. The walls between these rooms/houses were made of
wood or paper. That’s the reason one fire burned 2/3 of the city down, after
which fire prevention methods were put in place. I also found it interesting
how negatively the old “geisha” part of town was portrayed. Most of the museums
in Japan that we’ve been to generally don’t portray anything Japanese negatively,
but this part said what horrible living conditions the women were forced to
have. Finally, a silly/sad thing we learned about were balloon bombs. During
WWII, the government got Japanese school girls to make a bunch of balloon
bombs. These were, as the name suggests, bombs that hung from giant balloons. I
guess they sent 9000 of these across the Pacific Ocean to the US and only 600
actually ended up in the US. Maybe it was a sneaky idea, but it mostly seemed
kind of silly.
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Life size Replica of the Kabuki Theatre |
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This is what Daimyos used to get carried around in. |
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Replica of a float used at a festival. |
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Kabuki Theatre |
We were already behind schedule leaving the museum, museums have a habit of taking longer than I think they will. We stopped for some chicken burgers before going to the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. This is a garden that you have to pay to get into, but it seems more like a public park. I think the reason you have to pay is so that they can keep it well-maintained. It’s quite a large park with a Japanese garden, French garden, and English garden. The English garden basically just seemed like a nice lawn, but maybe that’s the most iconic item of English gardens. Unfortunately, we got there kind of late- at 3pm and the garden closed at 4:30pm- so we didn’t have time to relax, but only to walk around.
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French part of the Garden |
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The name of this rose is "My Granny" :) |
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Edelweiss rose |
Then, we headed for our last stop of the day, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building which has a free observation deck on the 45
th floor. I had opted not to go to the Sky Tree (which is the tallest tower in Tokyo and 2
nd tallest in the world) because I didn’t want to have to wait in line. Anyways, we walked to this building from the garden. First, we went the opposite way we needed to go and ended up having to walk all around the outside of the garden. We finally got to Shinjuku station which we mistook for Shibuya station and for a minute thought we were at the busiest intersection of the world. In the station, we asked for directions to the building since we were so mixed around and I think we were both secretly thinking of giving up. We got directions to take an underground passageway all the way to the building. We thought we followed her directions to a T, but I think it was more of an S that we followed. We ended up on a sketchy deserted underground tunnel for a bit before coming back up into the open air. Now, you might be thinking, “How hard can it be to find a giant building?” Well, it’s a little bit hard when there’s giant buildings all around. A short walk later we found the building and then eventually found how to enter the building. There was a line up (maybe 10-15 minutes) to go up the elevator which I didn’t think was too bad. In the end, I was really glad we persisted in finding our way. It was really incredible to see Tokyo from way up high. There were some other tall sky scrapers, but for the most part you could see for a long distance and on a clear day you’re supposed to be able to see Mt. Fuji. We got there as the sun was beginning of set and it was quite nice. It wasn’t beautiful, it was more just crazy to look for so far and see only buildings. That’s what it looks like when you put the entire population of Canada into one metropolitan.
This wasn't actually Shibuya, it was right by Shinjuku Station.
I think this video is pretty funny though.
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On our way to the government building, this was a busy intersection. |
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Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building |
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Buildings as far as the eye can see |
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You Can see Tokyo SkyTree. It's the tall thing that's hard to see with the smog. |
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Beautiful sunset |
Next, we found a place for supper- a Thai restaurant. Afterwards, we both agreed we should’ve just gone for the pizza place, but since I had never been to a Thai restaurant I thought I should try it. The food was ok, but there were a few too many mystery foods that I didn’t like the look or taste of in my noodles.
Since it was 8:00pm, we figured we should go to our hotel, especially since we’d have to somehow find our way back to Shinjuku station. We were walking along when lo and behold we found a brightly lit underground passageway that said Shinjuku Station. I guess that was the passageway that we were supposed to take on our way to the government building. We bought our tickets and got on the train. The train went one stop and then stopped and stayed stopped for a long time. This was nothing new to us, we’d been on trains before that stopped for 10-15 minutes at stations. So, we waited patiently. There were announcements in Japanese. Everyone else was waiting patiently on the train. About 20-30 minutes later, I finally noticed a screen that showed different train lines and whether they were delayed or not in service because of an earthquake! Well, that explained why we weren’t moving. We still didn’t know what to do though. People were coming on our train and then getting impatient and leaving. We brainstormed options- both the lines we supposed to take were not in service and we didn’t know when they would be. We considered taking a taxi. It was really difficult to know what to do without any information about the earthquake or the damage it may have caused. Finally, after an hour and a half we left the train, went to the bathroom and got our tickets refunded. We asked if the metro was running and were surprised to hear that it was. So, we bought different tickets and decided to try the metro.
The first train we took was quick and we had no problems. Then, we came to our transfer station and found hundreds of people waiting for the subway. Luckily, we met a really nice English speaking Japanese lady who helped us out. Every ten minutes or so a completely packed train would come, a couple people (if any) would get off and then somehow more people would cram on. The lady, who helped us, fit on a train by putting one arm and leg in, as the door was closing she squeezed the rest of her body in somehow. She had informed us that it’s like this every day during rush hour, it wasn’t normal for a Saturday night, but was only busy because of the earthquake. Train crew went up and down shoving people’s things into the train so that the doors could close. Finally, after at least 30 minutes of waiting, we were at the front of the line, another completely full train came. Adam and I thought that there was no way we could possibly fit since it was already so full, but then a “miracle” happened. Everyone behind us pushed forward and not only did we somehow fit, but another 3-4 people got on behind us. The pushing wasn’t in any way rude or rough like you might expect, it’s not like people were trying to butt in line to push forward. Rather, people were being helpful in pushing you on the train. Once I was in, I literally couldn’t move my legs or arms or anything and I found the whole situation pretty ridiculously funny- maybe it’s because I was already so exhausted. I maintained a small injury from this experience, a slight rug burn and bruise on my right arm. I felt that Adam and I were getting the real Tokyo experience.
Unfortunately, we got off before we needed to and ended up having to wait to get onto the same train line we had just left. Luckily, when it came to be our turn, a completely empty train came and we were able to fit on quite comfortably. We were also very blessed that our hotel was 100 m from the station. We arrived at 12:15am and I was so glad that the reception was still open.
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People waiting for the metro. |
Sunday morning, we got up and went straight to Mass at a church about half a kilometer from our hotel. We didn’t get up early enough for breakfast. I’ve really been appreciating the welcome that we receive at the parishes in Japan. This was a small church, but really full. We were greeted by people and a man gave us English copies of the readings. After Mass, a man came and talked to us and gave us some postcards from the church.
We left and got some McDonald’s for breakfast/lunch before heading for Shibuya- the busiest intersection in the world. On the train ride there, I noticed how full the train was on a Sunday in the middle of the day and thought no wonder it’s so full during rush hour. It wasn’t crowded, but it was full. We went out the Hachiko exit of Shibuya and into the thicket of the intersection. I really felt like I was in New York or something since there were all these giant screens playing videos with music, people everywhere, and shopping complexes. We went into a Starbucks/book store across the street from the station. On the second floor, we could watch all the people crossing. I really didn’t think this intersection was going to be much after watching videos on youtube, but in real life I really enjoyed it. There were just people going everywhere. Again, I thought, “If this is a Sunday afternoon, can you imagine on a weekday during rush hour!?” Unfortunately, we only took videos and no pictures.
This was actually Shibuya- the busiest intersection in the world.
It looks cooler in real life.
Adam and I enjoyed walking in this busy neighbourhood to Yoyogi Park. One thing I noticed about Tokyo was the amount of vandalism. It’s not like it was bad compared to Canada or Europe, it’s just that there really isn’t much for spray painting around, so when I saw it there it was more noticeable.
As per usual, we ended up lost and walked through along a beautiful forest-y path before realizing we were in the wrong place and had to walk all the way back. Yoyogi Park is a large public park with all kinds of crazy stuff happening on Sundays. There were some people dancing, people playing instruments/selling their CDs, people practicing instruments, etc. We got to see some of Tokyo’s culture, international culture, and sub-culture.
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This guy had built his own percussion kit. |
Our last stop of the day was the Shimo-Kitazawa
neighbourhood. I had heard that it was a nice neighbourhood to walk around and
it was. There were little shops and restaurants and people milling around. This
time, we got pizza for supper and enjoyed the air conditioning. I was wondering
how many people were in the restaurant just for the air conditioning.
That’s a wrap- we went back to Tokyo station and then back
to Tarui. Overall, we had a really positive experience and Tokyo ended up being
a lot less intimidating than I expected for being the largest metropolitan in
the world.