So this will probably be a long post since it will cover my last two weeks of holidays doing part of the Camino Frances, from Leon to Santiago de Compostella. I'll divide it up day by day so that if you do want to undertake the task of reading about my journey you can break it up. :)
October 28
I
arrived in Leon and went directly to the Cathedral for Mass. Mass is held in this little back chapel, to
get into the main cathedral part you have to pay and who knows maybe no one
prays in there and they don’t have Mass there.
I wasn’t too impressed with that, it makes me feel like they’re making
God’s house into a tourist attraction.
After
Mass I went and got my pilgrim passport and it all went so smoothly, I found
the place right away and then I started my Camino. There’s arrows everywhere and it’s kind of
fun following them around a big city, like a treasure hunt. It’s nice in general following these arrows
you don’t have to worry about navigating or knowing where you are so you can
always just reflect.
So I
set off and got to this town (La Virgen Del Camino, I believe) and decided that
I’m feeling pretty good so I’ll keep going.
I meet up with this Australian man and so we continue on together. This guy was crazy- his pack was huge and
weighed 20 kg! I met him again at the
end in Santiago and he had kept all the weight.
We ended up taking the wrong way together. Yes it’s hard to get lost however in some
places you can take two different ways, we took the way that goes along the
highway instead of through more prairie like scenery. So eventually I realized this and turned back
and then met this Australian guy again, in the end he decided to continue on
and I decided to go back to La Virgen (I won’t mention just how many extra
kilometres I walked). I got back to La
Virgen with all these lovely ideas of hostels being open and welcoming with
community meals, etc, etc. I go to the
first hostel, it’s closed. The second
one is also closed. I ask (or try to
since I speak no Spanish) and everyone says that the albergues are closed for
the season. I don’t know what to
do. I go back to these monks I had
talked to before for help. They called
down a brother who spoke some English who helped me. I was feeling extremely discouraged at this
point, almost on the brink of tears thinking what am I doing travelling by
myself without a plan in a country where I don’t know the language. Anyways he tells me I could take a bus back
to Leon since I know a hostel is open there and even offers to give me money
for the bus. I ask about hotels and he
walks me (that’s right walks me) to the cheap one. I was a little concerned but it was clean,
smelled like smoke though.
So what did I learn from all
this? Gratitude. See the whole time I was wandering around I
kept blaming God (because of course it’s His fault...) for not providing for
me. Then later that evening and the next
day I realized that God had provided for me.
I was the one who wasn’t prepared for hostels being closed because it
was the end of the season. God provided
an English speaking monk for me and a cheap hotel. I had so much to be thankful for. Furthermore, although the hotel room smelled
like smoke, I don’t have allergies related to smoke, so yet another thing to be
thankful for.
Anyways so when I got into my
hotel room I decided that I was going to plan out this trip right now and call
ahead to these hostels to see if they’re open.
I sit down to start planning and realize that I don’t speak Spanish so I
can’t call ahead and plan all this, what a blessing that turned out to be.
October 29
I
walked a lot this day. In general I
would start walking around 7:40am and then finish between 4:30-6pm each day, of
course taking a break for lunch and such.
I
started learning patience today, just a little since I struggled with this throughout
the Camino. It’s hard you walk all day
and sometimes you just want to be done with it.
It’s like this battle between wanting to walk because you have nothing
else to do and would be bored if you didn’t and this desire to move onto the
next thing. I think this can be applied
to our lives. Sometimes we fear being
still and not having anything to do because we could be bored or lonely. We fill our lives up so much and are
constantly going from one thing to the next sometimes without really living,
without really being present. What we
need to ask ourselves is where are we going?
And why are we in such a rush to get there? Like on the camino all you do is walk, and
you don’t really get anywhere. Sure, you
get closer to Santiago but really if you just wanted to go to Santiago you
wouldn’t walk there, you could fly, take a bus, etc. Where
you get (often) is some random little town that basically is made up of one of
two albergues. So why in such a rush to
get there? I find that I’m impatient
with life too always looking to the next thing and what I need to realize is
that life is all about the journey, not about the next place we’re getting too,
because then when I’m there I’ll be thinking about the next thing still. I think that’s what this time in France is
for too, to learn to be, to not worry about the future, to have patience with
the present, and just live because I don’t know what the next thing will be.
I met a
German girl at the hostel I stayed at and we made supper together. It was a parish hostel with one space heater
for two dorm rooms and a commons area, it was cold. You also kind of wonder how often they change
the sheets between pilgrims, some places give you sheets and some give you
disposable ones, but still if you do the camino you need to bring your own
sleeping bag.
October 30
Today I felt like I had
bruised the top of my foot, I had been tying my shoes tightly to avoid
blisters, maybe too tightly.
In the
morning I walked by this heart made of stones with a ten euro bill inside. Then up at the top of this hill is a man who
offers you free food and drinks. I found
out later from other pilgrims that this guy had put the 10 euro bill
there. It was there for at least an
evening and morning before anyone took it, so many people passed it by because
we realized that somebody else could use it more than us. I don’t think you’d see that on a city
street. It was an interesting idea
anyways...
I walked
through Astorga and was surprised how the noise of the city shocked me. Most of the churches that I passed on
pilgrimage were closed. In Astorga I
walked in at the end of Mass and was just really grateful to spend a few
moments with Christ. On my way leaving
Astorga I started to cry, I couldn’t help it (I cried a lot on this pilgrimage,
it was just really tough physically, emotionally, spiritually, mentally) I just
really missed Christ and being with Him and receiving Him. Here in Rodez I am able to attend daily Mass
and the churches and chapels are open for me to go in and pray and then there’s
adoration on Saturdays and Sundays. So I’m
learning to be grateful for the Eucharist (more on this later...)
Today
again I had to learn patience. I also
reflected on how I try to grasp at things.
So for instance, I was trying so hard to enjoy the present, so really
just live and enjoy the scenery, but I was grasping at the present. I wanted to keep this present forever, to
remember this scenery by taking pictures (so really I was already thinking
about the future and wanting to remember this present), and really I can’t do
hold onto the present, everything passes.
(Reminds me of Ecclesiastes: for everything there is a season and a time
under heaven; and of course: all is vanity and a chasing after wind). Really trying to grasp at the present is like
chasing after the wind, because it’s impossible, the more we try to grasp the
more we fail at experiencing the present.
We have to just receive.
At the
end of the day before entering the town where I was staying, I just sat and
gazed out over the mountains and had a little talk with God.
October 31
Today I
walked through the mountains, it was beautiful!
I would stop and look around but then it was chilly so I’d have to move on. The mist on the mountains made it a very mystical
experience (hehe). Anyways that night
the hostel I stayed at was much fuller and I met a bunch of other pilgrims and
ate with them. It’s interesting the
inclusive community like feeling amongst pilgrims. The conversation alternated between English
and French so I was glad I could speak both.
That night this guy from Hungary offered me vitamins since he could tell
I was getting a cold. I really saw
Christ working through him to take care of me.
November 1
Today
was the day that I walked way too much, I think 36 km or something and my body
wasn’t used to walking that much yet. My
feet didn’t like me very much. Part of
the walking this much is due to my stubbornness. See I took the wrong way and I could’ve ended
up in the same place but I decided to turn back and find the correct camino
path. I think I realized sometimes it’s
worth turning back and it’s a good thing to do (even in life) and sometimes you
just need to keep going- this was a time I should’ve just kept going.
I
walked through vineyards today. It
rained on and off and I felt like I didn’t take any breaks and couldn’t be
still. I felt homeless in a way just
wandering and having to keep going. I
reflected on the verse, “Foxes have holes and birds have nests but the Son of
Man has nowhere to rest his head” (sorry these verses aren’t cited or word for
word... I guess I could look them up). I
think it opened me to feel a bit how Jesus felt and also how a missionary would
feel. Like St. James for instance being
so far from home trying to proclaim the Gospel to people who he probably had a
hard time communicating with. I also
thought about St. Francis Xavier and his missionary work.
Today
again I felt like it was really hard to connect with God which was frustrating
because I have all day to pray. I found
I missed Him but couldn’t seem to focus on prayer.
This
night I stayed at an albergue with no heat, but I was just so grateful I didn’t
have to walk any further. Makes you
realize all the things you can do without and also grateful for all the things
you usually have.
I also
started to realize how this pilgrimage was opening me up to other people. I mean you’re sleeping, etc. in close
proximity with complete strangers. We’re
all dirty and smelly. I guess I feel
like I so often have fear towards unknown people or avoid people because they
seem “dirty” but then when you’re that person you kind of realize how we’re all
human.
November 2
Today
it also rained off and on (like most days) but I found that I became detached
to the weather. At first I was praying
that it wouldn’t rain on my pilgrimage but then I realized it has to rain on
someone’s pilgrimage since people are doing this all year. Rain makes things green. Also, rain or shine I was going to walk.
Today I
had an easier time reflecting, how we’re all just passing in this world, people
come into our lives and leave, we aren’t of this world. Like people on the Camino you meet them and
then maybe you’ll see them again, maybe you won’t and that’s ok.
I also started missing my own space. Even though I was alone all day it’s not like
I had my own space to be, if that makes sense.
I thought about how many people live in crowded conditions throughout
the world, in really bad conditions and just how blessed I am.
All the
churches I went to today were open which was a nice change.
Also
this was the night I had an amazing supper.
In general I paid 9 euros or less for soup or salad, main course, dessert,
and wine. This night, at this hostel,
for 7 euros, we had: soup, salad, pasta dish, and dessert. It was really good.
November 3
Today
was the day that it rained hard the whole day.
I walked 30 km but it was a lot of up and down. I stopped once for a sandwich and then I
think I walked 5.5 hours straight because if I stopped I’d get cold since I was
wet. I was able to have a really good
meditation today though, I think because I couldn’t see anything around me,
there were no distractions. I wasn’t
trying to take in the scenery and remember it.
It was foggy. I compared it to
the storms in our own lives how we often can’t see past them to the bigger
picture and just need to take one step at a time following the yellow arrows
(or in life- God’s will). I also was
able to praise God despite the rain from the very beginning of the morning
which was such a gift since usually I would be complaining to God.
The
landscape reminded me of Ireland (well what I think Ireland is like since I’ve
never been there)- green hills with fog and rain.
I also
thought about how we constrain ourselves so much with time. Life is so different on the Camino, most
people don’t have a time limit, they just go with however long it takes. Some people just walk and when they feel
tired look for a place to sleep. The
German girl I met was interesting she pointed out that some people do plan or
want to do more kilometres, but then there’s injuries (or in her case her bike
needed repairs) and so you just have to adjust.
November 4
Today
was Sunday and it was a day of rest. I
only walked 19 km because I wanted to stay in this town since they had evening
Mass, this was the first time since Leon that I was able to attend Mass. Attending Mass here was awesome. Walking towards the church I found myself
begging God for it to be open and for there to be Mass (it said there would be,
but in other places it had said that too and there wasn’t ) actually throughout
the week I had been praying that God would provide me with a place to attend
Mass on Sunday.
I think
at this Mass I began to realize why the Eucharist is translated “Thanksgiving”. It’s just such a gift and all I could do was
thank God. I felt God say that now I
have received Him and so even though I’m not able to spend time with Him in Adoration
or in the Tabernacle, I am now His tabernacle, which is pretty amazing. This means that the Church is His tabernacle-
a good reminder of how to treat others.
November 5
I think my last line above is funny because of
what happened this morning. I stopped by
this little shop to buy a pastry since I didn’t have enough food with me for
breakfast. This guy starts chatting with
me which is fine, but I wanted to get a move on and he kept asking me questions
which in my opinion were “rude” like what I do, that’s ok, but how much money I
make, how much is my rent, I could be making more in Spain, what’s your e-mail,
do you have a camera, I’ll take your picture in my store. I found I got really upset at all this. Finally I was just like I have to go. It took me a while to forgive him (yes I had
to forgive him since I had taken offense) and to get back to my peaceful
contemplation.
My
prayer today was hard too (it was hard a lot of the time actually) I was so
distracted and you’d think that with all day to let my mind wander I could
focus for half an hour, but I think it can help me learn humility and patience
with myself. Humility to recognize that
I can’t even pray by myself, I need God to pray through me. I also tried to listen to God and then I
realized maybe I’m just trying too hard and just need to be and if He speaks He
speaks.
Now for
a funny incident, I’m a city girl. So
today I was walking along this skinny path and all of a sudden there’s 5 big
cows coming towards me on the same path, now you all probably know just how
much I love animals. I was scared they
would step on my feet and that would hurt, I didn’t know what to do so I tried
to just get off the path as much as possible and wait for them to pass, it
seemed like a long time :P Yeah I passed
through many small little farming communities with cows, sheep and chickens
everywhere.
November 6
This
day was interesting because of the people I met. I walked with this girl from San Francisco,
she got a BA and is a producer for a video games company... yeah so next time
someone asks me what am I going to do with my BA I can say well I have many
options, such as... :P
Also at
the hostel I stayed there was this Korean travelling school staying there
too. Yeah, so one of the girls wanted to
interview me, which in the end resulted in me asking her more questions. So basically it’s a school of 22 students
ages 12-17 with 4 teachers and they travel for 10 months. Part of their travelling is doing some of the
Camino... how cool is that? And you just
think that you learn so much travelling.
In the
dining room that night this Belgium guy also played the guitar and sang some
songs- it was really cool to see how music unites with everyone singing along.
November 7
Today I
got to the town I was going to stay at and there was no restaurant or place to
buy food so I just continued onto the next town which turned out to be a
blessing since I was able to attend Mass (In Italian). On the way to Mass it was raining but there
was this beautiful sunset on my right hand side which created a full rainbow on
my left hand side, so amazing.
I found
today I was way too much in my head so to get out I listened to some Matt Maher
and chilled under a tree listening to some music for awhile.
November 8
The last day of
walking! I arrived in Santiago early
afternoon and found an albergue to stay in and then headed to the
Cathedral. I found the Adoration chapel
quickly and entered and prayed and cried, just thanking God over and over. I felt like I had finally come home.
I also
was able to go to Confession today, so I was asking around for a priest who
knew English or French so the one priest tells me to go to this guy. So what he meant by he knows French is that
he had an examination of conscience in French and Spanish and I pointed to my
sins and then he absolved me. It was
interesting...
After
Mass in the evening it was pouring rain out and I wasn’t quite sure which way
to my hostel, but I found this lovely couple who guided me onto the road I
needed to be on. Once again people are
just great.
November 9
What I
realized today is that it doesn’t matter how beautiful a church is. Beautiful churches can help us enter into
prayer. However, what matters most is
that Christ is present, if He isn’t there it doesn’t matter how beautiful the
building is because Christ is more beautiful than anything. I thought of the verse (I actually looked
this one up), “he had no form or majesty that we should look at him, nothing in
his appearance that we should desire him.” (Isaiah 53. 2) and how that is like
the Eucharist, the host really isn’t anything to look at and yet after the
consecration and it becomes the body, blood, soul, and divinity of Christ, it’s
just so beautiful. I also was thinking
about how Christ comes to us so humbly in the form of bread (yet how necessary
bread is for our sustenance) and I wonder if we still have a hard time
accepting such a humble God. In this
Cathedral the altar is all gold and the statue of St. James is all gold and
then at the top (I think) it’s St. James again with a sword on a horse. I wonder if we still want God to be this
warrior king coming and forcefully changing the world into what we think it
should be. God seems to work more subtly
(sometimes not) and He brings the world to salvation.
I
attended the pilgrim Mass (first pew J)
and they used the giant incenser before the final blessing which was pretty
cool. Eight men control it and it swings
all the way up and down while the organ booms, it was awesome. You can probably youtube videos of it. I didn’t try and take any pictures.
It was
cool meeting up in Santiago with all these pilgrims I had met along the
way. That night I had supper with the
German girl and she said something interesting, “Tourists come and see the
Cathedral, take their pictures and they’re done. Pilgrims come and get wide eyed and then they
sit down in the square for an hour and just look.” Maybe that’s because pilgrims have learned “to
be.” We had supper together and then
went and looked at the cathedral all lit up at night. We just sat there without speaking.
One
last thing, I think John Paul II visited St. James’ tomb on November 9,
1982. I visited St. James’ tomb on
November 9th 20 years later. I felt pretty connected with the saints.
And
that was my pilgrimage. It was tough,
but I’m so glad I did it. I would say
you need at least 2 weeks to do the Camino because it takes a while to get into
it.